Rewireing an Epee

Remove the first grub screw.  Keeping pressure on the tip with your thumb remove the second grub screw.  Slowly ease off on the tip and catch it in your palm as the main spring forces it out.  Tip out the main spring.  Put these somewhere safe
If you are lucky enough to own a bench vice clamp the tang in the vice and fill the grove in the blade with nail varnish remover.  Allow this to soak for a hour  to loosen the glue up.  Carefully peal the wire away from the blade.  Snip off the wire just under the tip and remove then point using your best pliars.  Remove the remaining wire and glue debris. The best tool for this is a broken hacksaw blade with a flat bladed screwdriver being second best .  A quick brushing with a wire brush will finish it off and remove any surface rust.  One school of thought likes to leave some old glue there to form a key for the new layer.
If you have the correct tools recut the thread on the tip.  Epees are a M4 by 0.7 die, foils a M3 by 0.6. 

The epee socket now needs to be modified.  In the space between the two live sockets drill a small hole all the way through in the same direction as the existing holes.  Sand or file all the rough edges of the hole down.  You will feed your wire through this later.
The nut bolt assembly that clamps the socket onto the bracket needs make shock resistant.  This can be done by applying a small amount of super glue (the cheap stuff is ideal here) or locktight to the thread.  The other way is to put another nut on the thread if the bolt is long enough.  Leave the other two nuts & bolts alone.

The rewire
First de-burr the plastic button.  Occasionally when these are removed from the mold there will be a tiny spur of the spruce left sticking out that will prevent the button from fitting inside the tip assembly.  Fine grade emery cloth or an emery board will be suitable.
The important part.  A blade has to be bowed while being rewired.  If you rewire onto a straight blade the first time you land a powerful hit and flex the blade the wire will snap.  You may lose a couple more hits before you realise that this has happened.  The essential tool for this is two aerosol lids and a length of string.  Drill a hole in the side of each of top and thread the string through these.  Stick one lid on each end of the epee and pull the string until the desired level of bow is achieved.  Tie the string with a firm knot.  Remove the blade.
Check to see if the point screws onto the tip of the blade.  Should it stick and you have the correct tools recut the thread on the tip.  Epees are a M4 by 0.7 die, foils a M3 by 0.6.  If you don’t own a die a wire brush is your next best friend.
Remove the last half inch of insulation from the wires.  Burning the insulation and then scraping it clean with a knife edge appears to work best.
Apply a small amount of superglue or lock tight to the thread of the tip being careful not to get any in the grove for the wire. At this stage there are various schools of thought to the assembly.  Screw barrel assembly on to the blade and then feed the wires through or feed wires through the point and then screw this onto the blade.  Personally I feed the wires through but leave the button just out of the barrel, carefully place the wire into the grove at the top of the epee and then screw the tip on making sure that the button does not rotate around with the point. 


Once the point is snugly tightened the plastic button is then pushed fully into the point.  A quick continuity check can be performed at this point to ensure that the wires have not been severed by screwing the barrel on.  Put the blade into the aerosol and string assembly.  It will be a touch tighter now due to the addition of the barrel to the end of the blade  Apply glue to the grove but leave 5mm at the end of the blade before the tang unglued.  Carefully apply wire into grove.  If you have a Leon Paul V-section blade the little guide tool is a worthwhile investment otherwise sit there keeping constant tension to ensure that the wire sits in the bottom of the grove until the glue cures.
Cut an inch of 0.5mm heat shrink and slide this down the wire so that it sits in the end of the blade/start of the tang.  Again a quick continuity check can be performed at this point to ensure that the wires have not been damaged and are shorting out.
On the socket assembly tape over the bottom of the holes where the nuts are.  Ensure that there is no tape over or near the new hole you drilled earlier.  Any glue or tape could strip the insulation from the wire when you feed it through the hole.  You could epoxy the nuts into place.  Now you need to be sure of how strict the weapons check is going to be at any events you go to since there is not supposed to be any tape on an epee handle as it could be hiding an Onishchenho switch and the officals may object to tape on the socket assembly for the same reasons.
Assemble the guard.  Feed the wire through the little hole you drilled and then side the socket bracket onto the tang. Add the pad.  Position the wire so it is not pinched as you slide the handle on and tighten the pommel/ nut up.
Now the section of the wire that you feed under the bolts will become brittle over time and snap.  So when cutting the wires down to length allow for this and keep some excess for future use.  Cut the wire to length and remember to remove the insulation.  Loosen off the bolts.  Warp the un-insulated sections around the bolt but under the washer and then tighten.
Insert the main spring into the barrel. Followed by the tip and the grub screws.  This is typically a two person job with the second person pushing the tip in so the holes in the side of the tip line up with the groves in the barrel.

Plug body wire in and test